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We started our trip to Portugal on
Thursday the 3rd, flying from Mpls to London (via Northwest), then taking a
TAP (Air Portugal) flight from London to Lisbon. We were met at the
airport by Joana's mom, Irene, and cousin Ana Mafalda. We stayed with
Ana Mafalda and her husband Luis while in Lisbon and enjoyed our visit with
them immensely. Friday, 4-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| Lucy in
the plane, trying to sleep. |
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Lucy
enjoys her first time flying Air Portugal |
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| Lucy was
the perfect baby on both flights, either sleeping (like her parents), or
enjoying playing or just looking around at things. |
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Do they
serve milk on this flight? |
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| Lucy waits
for her luggage in Lisbon |
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A small
fraction of our luggage |
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| Grandma
Irene is thrilled to see Lucy again, after 6 months! |
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Joana
arranges the rental car while cousin Ana Mafalda looks on |
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| A view of
the building that Ana Mafalda's flat is located in. Her flat comprises
the top three floors on the right side of the building. |
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Irene
helps us lug our bags up to the flat |
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| Joana
relaxes after a long journey while Lucy gets reacquainted with Grandma |
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Lucy with
her cousin Ana Mafalda |
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Saturday was a big day for all of
us, since Lucy was getting baptised and we were eager to reconnect with
family and friends. Lucy's godparents, Rui and Fernanda, drove down
from Porto to join us for the Baptism and a dinner afterwards with the
entire family.
Saturday, 5-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| Lucy gets
up early to play with Grandma |
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Lucy and
Grandma Irene |
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| Happy
little girl |
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Joana and
Lucy hanging out in Ana Mafalda's kitchen |
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| Doing a
little reading before breakfast |
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Lucy might
be jet-lagging–she looks a bit tired. |
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| But she's
still awake enough to enjoy her book |
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Happy to
be chewing on something |
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| Happy
little girl |
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Grandma
Irene, Joana, Lucy |
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| Pow-wow |
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Lucy with
Mom and Dad |
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| Luis and
Sean watch Lucy |
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Ana and
Luis' dining room |
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| The view
from Ana and Luis' apartment, looking out over the river Tejo |
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The bridge
which is now known as the 25 of April Bridge was originally named after the
dictator Salazar, but renamed after the revolution, on 25 April, 1974. |
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| Another
view of the bridge |
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A favorite
view of mine–cobblestones |
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| Looking
down from Ana's apartment |
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Our first
rental car was a Megane–which we later swapped for something a bit smaller |
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| Joana and
Lucy |
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Waiting
for Fernanda and Rui to arrive, we head out for a short walk |
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| The sling
works great for letting Lucy see the neighborhood |
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Lucy
stares at some birds |
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| More cool
cobblestone patterns |
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The new
"Smart", from Daimler Chrysler–who recently decided not to import the
Smart into the U.S. as originally planned. |
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| Lucy
continues to look at cool stuff while on our walk |
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Another
view of the bridge |
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Cobblestone closeup |
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Pretty
Portuguese tiles |
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| Tiles on a
neighborhood house |
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Lucy
giggles at seeing the birds flying around |
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| A fine day
for a walk! |
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Strolling |
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| Once
again, enthralled with the birds |
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Fenced in
schoolyard |
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Interesting old building |
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Still more
cobbles |
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| Another
view of cool old building, from Ana's apartment |
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Tiny
balcony |
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| Rui and
Fernanda, Lucy's Godparents, arrive and we all get ready to go to the
church. Rui, Joana, Lucy, Sean, Fernanda (L to R) |
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Ready to
head to the church |
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| Another
group shot |
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Lucy Inês,
ready for her Baptism |
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| Sexton
family |
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Joana,
Lucy and Sean |
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| Another
family shot |
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Lucy is
all dressed, and ready to head to the church |
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| At the
church, the Baptism ceremony begins |
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Lucy |
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| Lucy
started crying a bit, Fernanda, Sean, Joana and Rui look on |
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The
ceremony continues |
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| Joana
answering some questions that the priest posed |
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Lucy now
asleep. Tio Vitor in the background. |
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| The
ceremony continues |
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At the
Baptismal font |
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| Lucy Inês
Sexton is baptised |
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Rui lights
the Baptismal candle |
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| Nearly
done |
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Lucy
sleeps through much of the ceremony |
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| Grandma
Irene put together a wonderful dinner/reception after the ceremony.
Here Lucy poses with Joana's Uncle Toze and Aunt Mize. |
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Joana with
cousins Sofia and Fernanda, and Aunt Maria Jose (Mize) |
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| Toze holds
Lucy while Irene and Mize look on |
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Lucy with
her Godmother Fernanda |
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| Lucy,
Fernanda, and Joana |
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Lucy with
Joana's Aunt Manuela |
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| Posing by
the cake |
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Family
photo |
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| Lucy with
Joana's Uncle Vitor |
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This is
the dessert table–an amazing collection of a variety of wonderful desserts |
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| Chatting |
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Proud
Grandma Irene |
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| Lucy with
Joana's cousin Fernanda |
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Lucy is
making new friends |
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| Fernanda
gets Lucy giggling |
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Lucy with
her Godparents |
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| Fernanda,
Lucy, Rui |
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Francisco
and Maria |
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| Pedro's
Francisca |
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Vitor and
Mize |
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| Catarian,
with Francisca and Diogo |
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Maria with
her Grandma Manuela |
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| Gonçalo
(cousin Fernanda's husband) and cousin Sofia |
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Francisco
(Gonçalo and Fernanda's son) |
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| Sofia,
Sean, Fernanda |
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Joana's
cousin Ana |
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| Mize, Luis |
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Vitor |
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| Manuela |
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Toze |
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| Ana with
Tia Irene |
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Vitor
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| Mize |
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Luis |
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| Parents
and godparents |
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Cutting
the cake |
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| And
serving the cake |
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By the end
of the evening, Lucy was clearly worn out |
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Finally–sleep! |
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On Sunday, we headed for Belém, a
suburb of Lisbon that has a number of museums and monuments. It is
from Belém that Vasco de Gama sailed when he started out on his voyage of
discovery in 1497. We started out with the obligatory visit to the
Antiga Confeitaria de Belém, which is a centuries old coffee shop that
serves the famous pastéis de Belém (pastéis de nata) pastries. (Article
#1,
Article #2 describing the pastéis).
After scarfing down plenty of the
little custard pastéis with Irene, Joana, Lucy & I headed over to the
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (monastery) for a brief visit, followed by a stroll
through a park, a stroll through a flea market, and a stop at an outdoor
cafe for some lunch. (Monastery
page).
Sunday, 6-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| Ready to
get started on another fun-filled day |
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Joana &
Lucy |
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| Sean &
Lucy |
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Joana with
Lucy at the Confeitaria in Belém |
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| Waiting
for our pastéis |
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Lucy |
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| Sean &
Lucy |
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Sean &
Lucy |
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| Lucy spots
the pastéis |
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Lucy in
front of some azulejos (painted tiles) |
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| Family |
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Lucy |
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| Pastéis de
Belém |
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Lucy |
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| After
eating our pastéis, Irene headed back to Ana's, and we went for a walk. |
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Joana
spotted a street vendor selling roasted chestnuts (quite common), so we
stopped and got some. |
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| We walked
over to the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos |
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Lovely
stone sculpture |
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| More
statues |
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Joana and
Lucy |
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| Inside the
Mosteiro |
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After the
mosteiro, we just walked around a bit. Note the very cool cobblestone
pattern (very typical everywhere in Portugal). |
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| Lucy in
the sling |
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We came
across and open air flea market |
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| And then
proceeded to walk around a local park. It was Sunday, so the park was
filled with familys having picnics, playing soccer, etc. |
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Lucy is
getting a bit sleepy |
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| Snuggling |
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Joana and
Lucy |
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| A little
guy enjoying an ice cream |
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People
hanging out in the park |
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| Very
typical colorful houses |
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Old houses
in Belém |
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| Looks like
Sunday is laundry day |
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The
Portuguese flag |
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| The park |
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Lucy gets
her first glimpse of the Portuguese flag |
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| Quite a
narrow house! |
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We
unexpectedly find the "Restaurante Montenegro" |
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| Posing by
the restaurant |
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Local
McDonald's |
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| Kids
playing soccer in the park |
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After a
good kick |
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On Monday, we drove with Irene from
Lisbon to visit Sintra–site of an old Moorish castle. We drove along
the coast, passing through
Cascais, and
stopping briefly at Guincho Beach (Praia
do Guincho, Fortaleza do
Guincho). Joana enjoyed seeing the ocean again quite a bit (and
Lucy enjoyed her first windy view of the ocean). After a little walk
down to the beach, we got back in the car and drove to
Sintra. Sintra is one of the most interesting spots to visit in
Portugal, with plenty to see and do. We walked around the town for a
bit, doing some shopping, and had lunch. Then back in the car and we
drove up to the Moorish Castle (Castelo dos Mouros,
Site 1,
Site 2)–a
stunning old castle perched on the mountain overlooking Sintra and the
surrounding area. On the drive back to Lisbon, we stopped briefly at
Tia Manuela's house for a quick visit.
Monday, 7-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| As our
morning starts, Lucy prepares herself by enjoying some nummy cereal. |
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Lucy and
Grandma |
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| Lucy |
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Lucy
lunging for the cameraman |
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| Tile roof
(the building next to Ana's apartment) |
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We start
our drive, now heading through Cascais. |
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| Joana
enjoys driving once again in Portugal, after a long hiatus. |
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I love
driving in Europe–the signs always tell you everything that you need to
know. |
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| The road
heads along the coast |
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North of
Cascais, nearing Guincho |
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| In the
distance is
Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in Europe. |
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We stop at
Guncho beach |
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| Getting
Lucy into the sling |
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Gorgeous
blue beach |
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| Heading
down to the beach |
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Joana and
Lucy |
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| Just a bit
windy |
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Definitely
no swimmers in March |
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| Joana and
Lucy |
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Looking
north, towards the Cape |
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| The
Fortaleza do Guncho–apparently a fairly fancy hotel. |
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Sean, Lucy
and Joana |
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| Deserted
beach |
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Lucy looks
at the waves |
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| Lucy and
Joana |
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Guincho is
a world-famous favorite spot for both surfers and windsurfers |
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| Waves |
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Lucy
seemed intrigued by the waves |
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| Ready to
head back to the car |
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| The North
beach at Guncho, and there are a couple of surfers in the water |
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| Back in
the car, we head for Sintra, taking some back-roads |
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Shotgun-cam |
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| Pretty
tile roofs and colorful plaster houses |
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Lovely
colours |
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| Little
roads reminds me again of Belgium |
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We arrive
in Sintra, Lucy awake and ready to hit the pavement as a tourist |
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| We thought
that Lucy was paying a lot of attention to trees and leaves, waving in the
breeze |
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The
National Palace in Sintra |
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| Lucy looks
at trees |
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Very
thoughtful face |
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| Lucy's
first time picking at foliage, since it's still Winter back in Minnesota |
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Heading
for the city center |
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| Giggling
at Grandma |
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When Lucy
gets giggling, she gets so excited that she bites Mom's shoulder |
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| Building
in Sintra |
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View of
the National Palace |
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| First view
of the Moorish Castle up on the hill |
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Lucy also
loves watching shadows |
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| Happy girl |
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Lucy |
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| Young
couple |
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Random
punctuation |
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| We stop
for lunch in a nice little restaurant in the city center |
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As usual,
the food in Portugal is worth the trip alone. (I suspect that we had
Bacalhau). |
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| City
center in Sintra is a great place to stroll–full of tiny little passages and
lots of shops |
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Slippery
little street (look at the sheen on the cobbles). |
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| Playing
with Mom's face |
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Looking up
at the castle |
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| There were
a series of sculpture pieces along the sidewalk |
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Older
residents of Sintra? |
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| Irene and
Joana head back to the car |
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Strolling
past the National Palace |
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| City hall
in Sintra |
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Plenty of
cool little shops |
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| Gorgeous
tile roofs in the afternoon sun |
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City hall |
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| Flaking
paint |
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Cobblestone patterns |
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Cobblestone patterns |
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We drove
up the the Castelo and started walking through the gardens, on the way to
the castle entrance |
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| Lucy,
amused again by Grandma |
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Old stone
wall, huge blocks |
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Mother-in-law warns me to watch my head |
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Joana,
Lucy and Sean |
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| Family
photo |
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Huge
boulders beneath the castle walls |
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| First
glimpses of the castle walls |
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In some
spots, the forest had really overtaken the castle |
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| Joana and
Lucy |
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Coming up
to the gatehouse |
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| The castle
walls follow the topography of the top of the mountain |
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Looking to
the West, out to the ocean |
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| Just
walking along the castle walls can be a good workout |
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Irene
stayed with Lucy while Joana and I climbed further up the wall |
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| Easy to
get vertigo up here! |
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Looking
across to the Palácio da Pena, built by Dom Fernando II, in the early 19th
century. |
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| Castle
wall |
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Castle
walls stretch across the top of the mountain |
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| Joana
looks out towards the ocean |
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Joana,
defending the castle |
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| Tower and
walls |
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Looking
down at the city center |
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| Ocean view |
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Joana,
with Irene and Lucy in the background |
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| Lucy, with
Mom & Grandma |
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Castle
wall |
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| Nice view
of stonework in the wall |
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A couple
of schoolgirls, spending an afternoon at the Castelo |
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| Lucy with
Joana's Tia Manuela |
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On Tuesday morning, we left Lisbon
and headed North, for Braga, where Irene lives. On the way, to break
up the trip a bit, we stopped at
Fátima and the
Monastery of Batalha. We also stopped for lunch in a region that
is well-known for very tasty roast piglet (well-founded). We finished
our drive up to Braga, where we met Irene at her apartment, and then all
drove out to Paço de São Cipriano, near Guimarães, where we'll stay for a
few days.
Tuesday, 8-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
|
Interesting café name |
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The main
plaza at Fátima. The building at the center is built over the shrine
built at the site of the original
apparitions. |
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| Joana and
Lucy at Fátima |
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| The
Basilica at Fátima |
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Steeple/statue view |
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The
building built over the Chapel of the Apparitions, which marks the site of
the apparitions of the Virgin, seen by three children in 1917. |
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Another
view of the Basilica |
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| Statue of
the Virgin |
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After
leaving Fátima, we headed to Batalha, a monastery built to commemorate the
victory of the Portuguese over the Castilians at the Battle of Aljubarrota
in 1385. |
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| Monastery
view |
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Looking up
at stained glass |
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| Joana and
Lucy |
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Lucy |
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| Gothic
arches–one of my favorite views in touring medieval cathedrals/monasteries |
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Stained
light |
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| Nave |
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Roof of
the nave |
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| I think
that this is the tomb of King João I |
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Stained
glass |
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| Arches |
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Looking up |
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| Batalha |
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We stop
for lunch in a little town, in a region famous for roast piglet (which we
enjoyed very much). |
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| Lucy
notices the proprietor's little boy approaching her |
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Lucy |
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| Trying to
grab the little boy's nuk |
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Wednesday was a quiet day, spent at
the Paço and in Guimarães. We started by exploring the old manor house
were we were staying, and walked a bit through the gardens. We stayed
at the Paço de São Cipriano, a country house that has been continuously inhabited by the same
family (the Sottomayor's), since the 15th century. The house is a "pousada"–historic
home that has been opened up as a bed and breakfast. It could also be
referred to as a "quinta"–farm. We also took a
quick shopping trip into
Guimarães,
considered to be the birthplace of Portugal.
Wednesday, 9-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| The
courtyard at the paço (manor house) |
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Entrance
to the courtyard |
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| We went
for a walk in the morning in the gorgeous gardens |
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View of
the old chapel, from the gardens |
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| View of
the house from the gardens. The house was built in the 15th century. |
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Nice
morning for a walk |
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| Garden
view |
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Garden
view |
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| Perfectly
trimmed hedges |
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Garden |
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| Some old
bottles |
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A view of
the countryside, from the paço |
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| Vineyard |
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Odd
friends |
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| Joana and
Lucy at the paço |
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Strolling |
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| O gato |
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A portion
of the pousada building |
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| Backyard
and door leading back into the courtyard |
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Door into
courtyard |
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| Gorgeous
old stone courtyard wall |
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Courtyard
door |
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| Stairway
in the courtyard |
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Courtyard |
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| Joana and
Lucy on the stairs leading up to our room in the tower |
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Irene's
office in her apartment in Braga |
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| Shadows at
Irene's apartment |
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Thursday, we spent some more time at
the paço, walking further on some of the trails that ran through the
woods on the farm. Later, we drove into Porto to visit with friends
(and Lucy's Godparents), Fernanda and Rui, and met little Joaninha, their
daughter. We also had dinner with them and some other old school
friends of Joana's.
Thursday, 10-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| Lucy wakes
up and is ready for another day |
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Azulejos
pattern at the paço |
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| Outdoor
hallway at the paço |
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The front
of the house |
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| An old
date in the wall surrounding the courtyard |
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The main
gate at the paço (drive-in) |
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| Exterior
wall of the paço. (Actually, the entire property was fenced, and this
house, with its own wall, was in the center of the farm). |
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Old
windows |
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| A good
view of the paço, as we started hiking some of the trails through the woods. |
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The
proprietor, D.João Almeida de Santiago Sottomayor, strolls around the
property. Sr. Sottomayor was the perfect host–quite affable |
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| A view of
the chapel |
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Wild
chestnut husks |
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| Lucy
enjoys her morning hike |
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Snug in
the sling. While we were there, the weather was unusually cold for
March |
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| Waking up
now |
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Always
watching everything |
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| Strolling
along an old path, next to a stone wall that was probably built a couple of
hundred years back |
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A small
grove of olive trees on the farm |
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| Holly |
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A nice
view of the paço and surrounding countryside |
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| Olive
trees |
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Old stone
wall |
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| Paço view |
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Paço view |
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| Paço view |
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Detail of
old window (okay, "old" is superfluous at this house) |
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| The gate |
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Returning
from our walk |
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| Walking
past the chapel |
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Little
stained glass window in the chapel |
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| Chapel
facade |
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Walking
along the outside of the main garden wall (wall around the paço itself,
still in the center of farm/quinta itself) |
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| Sleepy
after all of this walking |
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Lemon
trees |
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| Pasture on
the quinta |
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Zonked |
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Zonked
closeup |
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| View of
the house from the pasture |
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More lemon
trees |
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| If you
look carefully, you can see "the holly and the ivy". Took me hours to
get the song out of my head. |
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Still
zonked |
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| Walking
past the chapel again. Notice that the chapel has its main entrance on
the outside of the manor house wall–so that workers on the farm could enter
for mass. There was also a private entrance on the inside of the wall. |
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Chapel |
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| Chapel
detail |
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Cross on
chapel roof |
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| Chapel
window |
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These
ferns appear to have been here a while |
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| Opening
the gate, heading back inside the manor house walls |
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Gates open
slowly |
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| Back in
the gardens |
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Ivy-covered wall of the house |
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| Nice
little balcony that was perfect for reading |
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Cool old
bell |
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| I just
can't get enough of this old bench |
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And the
pillars that the bench faces |
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| The
stairway back up to our room |
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Joana and
Lucy |
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| Lucy,
after an afternoon nap |
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McDonald's
in Guimarães. (Back into town to get Lucy some medicine to help w/toothing
pain) |
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| Lucy in
Guimarães |
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Joana
calls Fernanda, while Lucy checks out the phone connection |
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| Nummmm |
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Waiting to
meet Rui in Porto, we walked a bit in a local mall. Sean spotted some
students in traditional uniform, which always includes the "capas negras"
(black capes) |
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| Notice how
the male student has his cape over his shoulder. There are very strict
rules/traditions associated with student life & dress, but most especially
with how you wear your cape and what it means. (E.g. colored ribbons
indicating faculty, tears in the hem for friends or romantic interests, male
fado singers draped in cape and serenading a love interest, etc). The
student tradition, including the capas negras, is the heart of the
Portuguese student/university culture. (See info about
Coimbra). |
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Lucy meets
her Godmother Fernanda's daughter, Joana (Joaninha) |
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| Grabbing
at Joaninha |
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Isabel,
Fernanda and Joana (college friends) |
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Friday, we took a much-needed rest,
and spent the day at the paço. We had a lovely talk with Teresa, the
daughter of the proprietor, about the history of the house and the family.
She also let us see the incredible old library in the house. I did
some hiking in the evening, and Irene and Maria drove out to visit Lucy.
(We were about a 45 min drive out of Braga).
Friday, 11-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| Our
breakfasts were served in the basement, next to a monolithic fireplace–large
enough that you actually sit inside the fireplace, next to the hearthstone.
(The couch here is in the fireplace–if you look straight up, you look up the
chimney). |
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After
breakfast, Lucy reads a book with some Portuguese words |
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| She really
pays attention, as we read to her |
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Focused?
Or bored? |
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| Definitely
focused |
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Our room
was behind the balcony. The two windows to the right open into the old
library. |
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| Lucy hangs
out in a playpen for a bit |
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Contentment |
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| And
occasionally waving of arms and legs |
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A pretty
happy girl |
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| Nuk-chewing |
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Smile for
Daddy |
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| I went on
a hike in the afternoon again. Here's a good view of the gardens |
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Gardens |
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| Old wall |
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"Ruins".
Teresa told his that these weren't really that old–just a hundred years or
so |
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| I think
that these ruins used to be part of a house that belonged to some of the
people who worked the farm. (Tenant farmers). |
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Not much
to look at now |
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| Gorgeous
stonework, though |
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No mortar |
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| Not sure
what type of trees these were.. |
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Looks
long-abandoned |
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| I came
across an area of the quinta that had been clear-cut, which Teresa later
said was part of a forest restoration project. |
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Fires
still smoldering |
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| Looks like
they logged it and ground up the branches |
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Nice view
of the countryside. We're above the paço a few hundred feet here |
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| Valley
view |
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A fire
burning somewhere else, too |
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Logs
stacked and waiting to be hauled down |
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Left the paço fairly early and drove
back to Lisbon, staying at Ana's. We went to see Fernanda and Gonçalo,
and visited briefly with Tio Vitor and Tia Manuela at Ana's before getting
to bed early.
Saturday, 12-Mar-2005. |
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Up outrageously early, to catch a
5:30 AM(?) flight from Lisbon to Amsterdam. Then Amsterdam-Mpls.
flight.
Sunday, 13-Mar-2005. |
All photos |
| The
Amsterdam airport had the most incredibly swank infant/toddler area,
complete with cribs, toys, playpens, and high chairs. |
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Dad feeds
Lucy a meal in Amsterdam, while we wait for the flight to Minneapolis. |
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| Riding on
a horse thing |
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| Lucy also
enjoyed this little play area |
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Looking
forward to heading home |
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| This
little toy was Lucy's favorite throughout the trip |
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Reflecting
on her first trip to Europe |
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| This is
how Lucy and Dad get around Schiphol (Amsterdam airport) |
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Super
happy kid during flight to Minneapolis |
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| Ahhhh |
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